SMART-HAIR - Sustainable Multifunctional Adaptable Responsive Treatment for Hair

PRISM programme

The PRISM (PhD Research Programme for International Training in Sustainable Soft Matter) programme has launched its first call for applications, offering up to 14 fully funded PhD fellowships starting from 1 March 2027 at Université Paris Sciences & Lettres (PSL). The programme trains researchers to address ecological transition challenges through sustainable soft matter science, with projects focused on eco-friendly chemical processes, circular economy, renewable energies, and carbon capture, storage, and valorisation. Co-funded by the European Union under Horizon Europe MSCA COFUND (Grant Agreement 101261637) and partner institutions, PRISM provides interdisciplinary, international, and intersectoral training, including mobility opportunities, secondments, and courses in sustainability, innovation, entrepreneurship, career development, and transferable skills.

Applications must be submitted only via the PRISM website (https://prism.psl.eu/en/) by 31 October 2026 (23:59 Paris time).                                                                    

The PhD project

The cosmetic and haircare industries are increasingly seeking sustainable, high-performance materials that improve hair appearance and health while reducing environmental impact. This PhDproject aims to develop an innovative bio-based coating platform for hair substrates. By combining durable, long-lasting protection with reversible, adaptive effects, the project seeks to deliver advanced hair functionalities – such as enhanced volume, anti-frizz protection, and sensory benefits – that respond intelligently to consumer needs.

Key Research Objectives

1. Sustainable material design: optimize natural, biosourced, and biodegradable polymers networks as ecofriendly alternatives to conventional syntheticcosmetic coatings.
2. Long-lasting surface adhesion:  Investigate advanced interface and film-forming strategies to ensure durable cosmetic benefits that withstand everyday washing, grooming, and mechanical stress.
3. Adaptive & reversible functionalities: design dynamic material behaviors that allow for customizable, smart, and reversible hair properties.
4. Performance & efficacy evaluation: work in close collaboration with L’Oréal Research & Innovation hair experts to assess cosmetic efficacy, sensory attributes, and hair surface properties using state-of-the-art characterization tools.

What You Will Do 

Working at the intersection of polymer science, soft matter physics, surface and sustainable cosmetics, your research will focus deeply on understanding surface mechanisms and physico-chemical properties at the interface:

• Investigate the fundamental interactions between hair surface and coating
• Study the physico-chemical properties of polymer layers.
• Explore adaptive and responsive material behaviors enabling reversible hair benefits.

You will partner closely with academic researchers and L'Oréal R&I experts using state-of-the-art characterization tools.

3i dimensions

INTERNATIONAL: The PhD project has a strong international dimension through the combined environments of L’Oréal, and ESPCI Paris, all of which are highly involved in international research networks and collaborations. As a multinational company, L’Oréal offers access to worldwide research and innovation centers. In parallel, ESPCI maintains numerous academic collaborations with leading international institutions in the fields of soft matter, polymers, and biomaterials. The PhD candidate will therefore benefit from opportunities for mobility abroad, including the international secondment of at least one month. This mobility could take place either within a L’Oréal international research center or through academic collaborations. In particular, a research stay in Asia (Japan or Thailand) could be organized through universities with which Yvette Tran has strong connections. Such a secondment would be highly relevant for the project, especially for developing expertise in gel systems and responsive soft materials.

INTERSECTORAL: The PhD project has a strong intersectoral dimension through the close collaboration between the SIMM laboratory at ESPCI Paris and L’Oréal Research & Innovation. Initiated this year, the partnership already includes a 12-month postdoctoral project on biopolymers for hair coatings, involving the SIMM (Yvette Tran, Nadège Pantoustier) and S3M laboratories (Amandine Guérinot, Thomas Aubineau) at ESPCI together with L’Oréal’s Hair Fiber & Scalp and Innovation Ingredients departments. Building on these first developments, the PhD will reinforce knowledge transfer between academia and industry. The project combines expertise in soft matter, polymers, and surface functionalization with industrial objectives related to next-generation haircare technologies. It also offers strong innovation potential for L’Oréal through the development of sustainable, multifunctional cosmetic coatings based on biosourced and biodegradable materials, contributing to high-performance and environmentally friendly haircare solutions.

INTERDISCIPLINARY: The PhD project is highly interdisciplinary, combining concepts and methodologies from chemistry, physics, materials science, and soft matter engineering. A major part of the work focuses on polymer chemistry, including the synthesis, functionalization, and interaction with substrates. These aspects require expertise in macromolecular design, surface chemistry, and reaction engineering. The project also strongly integrates physics through the study of hydrogel swelling behavior, interfacial friction, adhesion, and mechanical properties of the biopolymer coatings on hair fibers. In addition, the research involves physico-chemical investigations of stimuli-responsive systems, including reversible interactions, encapsulation/release mechanisms, and environmental responsiveness to humidity, pH, or temperature. By bridging molecular chemistry with soft matter physics and responsive materials science, the project aims to develop innovative multifunctional coatings for advanced and sustainable cosmetic applications.

Salary

The PRISM programme offers a competitive salary above the national average for PhD candidates in France to attract and support excellent researchers.

Doctoral candidates will receive an approximate net monthly salary of €2,200, with additional family and mobility allowances available for eligible fellows.

The salary is subject to French income tax, with the exception of the family and mobility allowances. Depending on the candidate's individual tax situation, income tax may represent approximately 2–5% of the net salary and is levied by the French tax authorities independently of the employer.

To ensure consistent management and equal employment conditions across the programme, all PRISM doctoral candidates will be employed by ESPCI Paris - PSL, regardless of the host laboratory where their research is carried out.

Employer’s benefits

Remote working opportunities, access to sports and leisure activities, free access to public Paris city council’s swimming pools, access to CROUS canteen, scientific campus in central Paris, professional development programs, well-being workshops, social benefits through CNAS, partial health insurance support, and 75% support for sustainable mobility.

Name of the school of PSL

ESPCI Paris - PSL (Ecole Supérieure de Physique et de Chimie Industrielles de la ville de Paris)

Research Unit

Sciences et Ingénierie de la Matière Molle. SIMM. UMR7615

The SIMM laboratory (Sciences et Ingénierie de la Matière Molle) at ESPCI Paris is a leading interdisciplinary research unit dedicated to soft matter science, at the interface between physics, chemistry, and materials science. Jointly affiliated with ESPCI Paris, CNRS, and PSL University, SIMM develops fundamental and applied research on polymers, colloids, hydrogels, interfaces, and biomaterials. The laboratory is internationally recognized for its expertise in the design and characterization of responsive soft materials, surface functionalization, adhesion, wetting, and transport phenomena. SIMM combines advanced experimental approaches with strong theoretical and physico-chemical understanding to address challenges in healthcare, energy, sustainable materials, and cosmetics. The laboratory offers a highly collaborative and international research environment, with numerous academic and industrial partnerships. Its close interactions with companies such as L’Oréal provide an ideal framework for developing innovative and sustainable materials with strong application potential.

Supervision

Supervisor: Yvette TRAN (SIMM-ESPCI) contact@prism.psl.eu 

Co-supervisor: Luca POLACCHI (L'Oréal)

Candidates are encouraged to contact the project supervisors to discuss the proposed research topics before applying. All projects are open PhD projects, meaning that the research plan will be further developed collaboratively by the selected doctoral candidate and the supervisors.

The candidate should hold a Master’s degree in Materials Science, Physical Chemistry, Polymer Science, or a related field. A strong interest in polymer chemistry, soft matter, surface science, and physico-chemistry is expected. Previous experience through Master’s internships or research projects in materials, polymers, hydrogels, coatings, or surface functionalization will be highly appreciated. Knowledge of characterization techniques for polymers and interfaces would be an asset.

The project requires a motivated and curious candidate who enjoys working at the interface between chemistry, physics, and materials science. The ability to evolve in interdisciplinary and intersectoral environments, combining academic research and industrial innovation, is essential. The candidate should demonstrate autonomy, scientific rigor, strong communication skills, and an interest in sustainable materials and advanced cosmetic applications.